In Progress>>rx-78>>masking

New update πŸ˜€

Some parts in my RX-78 need to be painted in a two tone colors. They are the bazooka and knee parts. In order to pull it off, some more masking are needed. Here are the before and after pictures of those parts:


I put on the masking tape after I finish painting half of the parts in flat white color. Wait for the white until its fully dried, and then cover the section which I want to stay white using Tamiya Masking Tape. After that I spray it using Tamiya Acrylic Purple:

Peel off the masking tape slowly and carefully, and now you have one part that is painted in two colors πŸ˜€


Same step by step as the knee, but in here, after masking, I’m gonna paint the part using Tamiya Light Grey

voila πŸ˜€

There are only three parts that need to be done this way. Other parts could be painted individually and assembled after it was all painted in each of their color. Example, the shield :

In the shield, the white, purple, and yellow color are painted individually. It is clearly purple in real life, but somehow it turns blue-ish in the photo…

anyway, here’s a little tips in painting parts with masking tape. I’ve made a simple illustration, and I really hope it is understandable πŸ˜€

Black: part surface

Red: Masking Tape

Blue arrow: spray direction

The regular problems in masking parts are peeled of paints when removing the tapes. This could be easily countered by priming, using a good quality masking tape for model kits, wait until paints are fully dried before masking, and removing the masking tape carefully when you’re done.

And the other problem is leaking in the tapes. You could reduce the risk of leakage by applying the masking tape in a good way, make sure that there are no air gaps in the masking tape. It is essential to make sure that border between colors are fully closed or masked withoutΒ  gaps. just press the masking tape firmly to ensure this. And then, spray the paint like the direction in my illustration. That way, the air will help the masking tape closed down, even if you accidentally have some gaps in the masking tape.

If you spray it like the illustration above, the air could lift the masking tape up, or, the paint could slip through between the masking tape and the surface even if the masking tape are not lifted up by the wind. If you have no option but to paint it in this direction, It isΒ  important that you don’t spray too close to the parts, too much wind blows could become a disaster πŸ˜€

I learn about this from a scale modeling magazine (which I forgot the name). I still did some error in masking..there are still some leakage..but the amount are significantly less then my previous masking job πŸ˜€


26 thoughts on “In Progress>>rx-78>>masking

  1. rockleelotus says:

    pro masking! great job on separation of colors! to me, in the pic it looks like a dark purple still ^^ and very informative little tip, so even little details like spray direction make a difference. cant wait to see the other pieces colored!

  2. Xine says:

    Now I miss doing gunpla. Hopefully after I finish taking Nihongo classes I’ll be able to do some customizations myself. Thanks for the guide. I’ll wait for more pics. ^^

  3. h4mster says:

    Thanks, I’m glad that the tips is useful πŸ˜€

    Hope you get your hands on Gunpla soon πŸ˜€ I can’t wait to see more of your kit

    Thenks, this technique will definitely reduce the risk of having that kind of problem

    your welcome πŸ˜€

    • h4mster says:

      Thanks πŸ˜€ I also used to have the same problem…the paint always slip through eventhough I’m sure that it was already covered up perfectly…

  4. Chag says:

    I’ve been reading your tutorial articles and they’ve been an absolute joy! I have been interested in an airbrush for ages, but due to space and cost constraints I have hitherto refrained from dropping the big bucks on a compressor/airbrush package. I’m definitely looking toward to time when my circumstances stabilize, because they are the first things I’m going to get — well, aside from a few display cabinets, of course =)

    Also, it seem that you and I have a similar taste in our blog names, hehe.

    • h4mster says:

      Thanks, glad to have you stopping by here πŸ˜€
      Yeah, airbrush and all the support could hit hard on the budget. I hope you’ll get one soon ^^.
      LoL about the blog name πŸ˜€ and I believe that the way we came up with that name is almost similar too, you know, a place that mostly consist of our hobby in it.

    • h4mster says:

      one layer is enough actually, as long as it covered the part perfectly, it’s just because the width of the masking tape is only about 4mm, I have to apply multiple cut of masking tape πŸ˜€

  5. heathorn says:

    hm….makes sense bro, never thought of this before, thx for the tips! πŸ˜€
    is there a way to do shading without airbrush?

    • h4mster says:

      hmm, I’m not sure if there is a technique suitable to apply good shading in gunpla without airbrush…If it is painting military figure, shading could be done with oil paint. using the technique called blending, but I don’t think it’ll work on gundam.

  6. mikha_v says:

    Kadang kadang selotip ada yang kurang kuat menahan cat. Waktu aQ nge-cat rumah temanku, ada bagian2 tertentu yang kuselotipkan, tapi tetap cat nya tembus. Wah, cape banget nge-thinner-in nya lagi πŸ˜›

    • h4mster says:

      emang banyak sih faktor yg bisa bikin catnya ngerembes, salah satunya ya arah semprotan, jarak, sama kualitas selotip…kadang ada yg selotipnya nempel kuat banget sampe2 catnya ikut ngelupas waktu selotipnya diangkat 😦

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