In Progress>>RX-78>> Painting (1)

RX-78 have some parts that needs to be be clamped by other part before removing the seamlines.

This would make it harder to paint. There are two approaches on painting this kind of part. First, by making C joints in the arm. Second, by masking tape. Since I don’t wanna get down and dirty cutting my kit to make C joints, I decided to go with the traditional way: masking tape πŸ˜€

I paint the inner frame first and wait for until it fully dries. Applying masking tape when the paint is not completely dried would cause the paint to peel off when you take out the masking tape.

only both the arm and leg that need to be done this way.

After removing the seamline, I went on to the priming process. I use Tamiya White Surface Primary Paint to get the job done. Then I try to give a little pre-shading using Tamiya Acrylic Flat Black. Here is some example of the pre-shadedΒ  parts :

The parts are so small…making it a lot harder to apply a pre-shade. After that, I paint the base color, and hoping that the shades are still slightly visible (which I fail in some parts LoL). But for better or worse, most of the parts are already painted πŸ˜€

I use Tamiya Flat White for the white parts, German Gray for the inner frame, and Lemon Yellow for the yellow parts. Parts that will be painted in purple is going to be done tomorrow since it’ll involve further masking on the process.

One thing that is slowing me down in this build is the fact that I have to fix tons of error due to over sanding and failed seamline removal…It makes me think, if Bandai is able to make a seamless kit like Sazabi, why in the world they don’t make their other kit the same way?

anyway, that’s all the update for now πŸ˜€


24 thoughts on “In Progress>>RX-78>> Painting (1)

    • h4mster says:

      that way, I cannot remove the seamline because it’ll damage the paint πŸ˜€ I did paint the inner frame first before snapping it to the leg. And that’s why some masking tapes are used in the process πŸ˜€

  1. chubbybots says:

    Ah h4mster I have a question to ask, to prevent the paint from scratching the inner frame what do you recommend like those leg joints. Do you sand the sides?

    Haha as for seamless kits I think its just bandai being lazy πŸ˜€

    • h4mster says:

      sanding the part and priming could be done, basically anything that could make paint stick better to the surface. A protection from a thin layer of top coat could also do it I guess (I’m not sure because top coat makes the paint layer thicker). Also, by applying a thin layers of paint could reduce the risk of scratching the inner frame paints πŸ˜€

  2. heathorn says:

    ah nice hamster already started and pointed out the problems
    ohoho, I guess I’ll do it your way h4mster πŸ˜€

  3. rockleelotus says:

    nice job dude! it must be difficult to airbrush details on a small kit. i noticed you paint the skirt armor parts yellow, will having a bright base coat color affect the purple?

    with gundam marker, if i mask off an area after its dried(especial with gold) some of it will always come off on the tape XD i dont mind the dull look it leaves on my RX78 project but is the only way to prevent this with either priming or top coat?

    • h4mster says:

      I think top coat doesn’t really help protecting the paint from getting peeled off when removing masking tape, because a peeled off paint is more a matter of how the paint stick to the surface. Therefore, priming is the best way to hold the paint in place πŸ˜€ the other factor is the type of masking tape. In my opinion, Tamiya gives the best masking tape. It is really paint-friendly πŸ˜€ If the paint still come off on the tape, then my best guess is that gundam marker is not really suitable to be covered in a masking tape…

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