In Progress>>Sd.Kfz.184 ‘Elefant’

This is my second kit, and my first attempt to build a military kit. This time, I was able to take pictures of the Work in Process. So this is the box: DSCF5948It is a Dragon Model Limited (DML). Scaled on 1/35, and equipped with a very poor detail for a DML standard. I start off with the Lower Hull first

DSCF5954It’s pretty huge lower hull (since I only compare it to Stug’s). Then it comes to the wheel insertion, there are a total of 16 wheels for this tank.Up until now, the progress is going down smoothly

DSCF5959 The Sd.Kfz.184 are equipped with zimmerit (its a rough surface to prevent magnetic bomb from sticking). The problem is, this kit does not have a zimmerit applied on it. I have to make it myself. My first military kits and I already have to make a zimmerit?? What a pain! Gotta do what I gotta do I guess, so I prepare some masking tape and draw a zimmerit width on it

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For the zimmerit itself, I use Tamiya Epoxy Putty andcreate the pattern with Tamiya Zimmerit Coating Applicator. After I’ve done some error, I finally got the result I’ve wanted

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Now, its time to attach the tracks. For the DML kits, we must attach the tracks one by one.

DSCF6148After this, it’s painting time.To make things easier, I seperate the tracks from the wheel (the tracks must already been dried and formed before removing). I’m gonna apply the paint in two steps. The lower parts go first, then the upper parts later on. Therefore, I masked the upper part using a piece of paper

DSCF6153Then I paint the tracks using Tamiya Acrylic Black as the shading, and Acrylic NATO Brown+Black. This the first step to create a rust colour (Actually, there are many ways to create rust effec, this is just one of them)

DSCF6180Coloring the basecoat using Enamel Dark Yelow+Dessert Yelow+White

DSCF6207Open the mask and continue building the upper parts. That includes applying more zimmerit onto the kit..

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That is a 1/35 Figure standing on the Tank in the right picture. Moving on to the Pre-shading step which is basically applying dark colors in the tank’s edges. It’s my first time doing this and apparently, to pull this one out, you’ll need a pretty good airbrush. If you don’t, you’ll need a good enough skill to do this. As in my case, I rely on an insane amount of luck.

DSCF6240Then I start to paint the Basecoat using Dark Yellow+Dessert Yellow+White. I try to apply it thin, layer by layer until I’m satisfied with the outcome

DSCF6244It is now camouflage time. I’m using the free-hand technique, meaning that I do not draw the pattern and mask it before painting. I use Mr. Color Dark Green for the green pattern and Acrylic NATO Brown for the brown pattern

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As you can see above, it still looks too clean for a tank. To make it looks like it had gone through some battle, I apply washing technique all over the tank. It’s basically by painting the tank with very thinned darker color, and wipe it out just before its getting really dry. I washed the whole body with Raw Umber+Burnt Umber Color

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For the tracks, I washed it with Burnt Sienna, and followed by drybrushing it with Acrylic Flat Black + Gun MetalDSCFg6355DSCFg6357

It almost enter the final step of the build. Now I apply some chipping on the tank. Chipping is a method to resemble a torn up paint. Therefore it exposes the color underneath the paint. For this one, the chipped parts is already there for long, so it already rust a bit. Here is some picture of the chipped parts.

DSCF6379the little brown paint, that’s the chipped ones. All that is left is the flat coat and some dusting to make it more realistic. I don’t have photos for that part, so I’ll put the next pictures on the finished one.

Thank you for reading:D

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